|
|
By W. Schoonhoven
Photographs by Tom Morrow
|
|
Transylvanian TreasuresThe painted churches of the wonderful of the Bucovina region in Romania are examples of the some of the finest art of its kind in the world. Too bad the population refuses too let it be a stale museum, deciding instead that the living culture of devotion is as much a part of the experience of visiting these churches as the art itself.
Living in Budapest, one can scarcely fail to encounter beautiful examples of traditional Hungarian folk art from Transylvania as well as paintings of the Nagybanya School, which transformed Hungarian art at the beginning of the century by introducing the principles of plein air painting. What is less well-known is that other parts of Romania also boast outstanding art treasures.
 The Bucovina, in the northeastern part of Romania, is one such region. Monuments and paintings considered to be among the most beautiful examples of post-Byzantine orthodox art are to be found throughout the area. The landscape is dotted with extraordinary churches adorned with frescoes - the most daring and difficult of the painting techniques, according to Michelangelo - like open books of bible stories. The painted monasteries of the Bucovina are listed in the UNESCO catalogue of Great Monuments of the World.
A 4-day trip from Budapest is enough for a meaningful look at the area, although a lifetime could be devoted to really getting to know all it has to offer. In this article, we will concentrate on the route from Baia Mare (Nagybanya), via the wooden church zone of Maramures, to the "painted churches" of Bucovina.
Nagybanya (Baia Mare in Romanian)
About an hour from the Hungarian-Romanian border, you enter the Nagybanyai landscape with its wooded hills, its green meadows ornamented by distinctive medieval haystacks, and its simple houses in beautiful colours. When Simon Hollosy started the Nagybanya art colony in 1896, the region was still part of Hungary. Hollosy probably never dreamt what an influence his decision would have on his country's art history. Following in Hollosy's footsteps, nearly every Hungarian painter of the early 20th century travelled to Nagybanya, sometimes only briefly, sometimes for a long stay. They wanted to familiarise themselves with the principles of plein air painting and to exchange ideas about modern art.
As well as the magnificent landscape of the area, the old mining town of Baia Mare was also a source of inspiration. Sadly, it was badly disfigured during the Communist period. Nevertheless, the art gallery there is well worth a visit. Although many of the most important works of the Nagybanya School are in Budapest, the Baia Mare gallery houses an interesting collection of paintings by, among others, Simon Hollosy, Istvan Reti and Karoly Ferency of the founding generation of Nagybanya artists as well as by later followers such as Janos Thorma, Sandor Ziffer, David Jandi.
The Wooden Churches of Maramures
Maramures which lies in the northeastern part of Transylvania, on the way to the Eastern Carpathians and Bucovina, is known for its extraordinary wooden churches. Under Hungarian and Austro-Hungarian rule, the Orthodox religion lacked official status, and Orthodox worshippers were forbidden to build their churches in stone or brick. Their churches, therefore, had to be built of wood, and so the Orthodox perfected a style of wooden church architecture completely their own.
The walls of the wooden churches of Maramures are generally built of square-hewn logs laid horizontally with intricate joints. The roofs are always of shingles. The timber used is most commonly oak. In most cases, the construction is two-tiered, allowing clerestory windows high in the nave walls. A lower roof usually extends over the west end to form a porch.
 Most of Maramures's churches were rebuilt after the last Tartar invasion in 1717. Large porches and tall towers were added at that time. In the 18th and early 19th centuries, wall paintings combining the traditions of icon painting with pagan motifs and topical propaganda were added by local artists. These murals tend to follow the standard Orthodox layout, with the Incarnation and Eucharist in the sanctuary (for the priest's edification), the last Judgement and moralistic parables such as the Wise and Foolish Virgins in the narthex (where the women stand), and the Passion in the nave. The intricate woodwork of the churches' construction, thier elongated forms and the painstaking naive frescoes within make a detour to the Maramures area well worthwhile. Good examples of wooden church architecture can be found not far from the main road north from Nagybanya towards Sighetu. Marmatiei (Maramarossziget)in Surdesti, Ocna Sugatag and Budesti are particularly fine. CHECK ON MAP
Romanian Moldavia (Moldova)
The painted monasteries of Bucovina are masterpieces of art and architecture. The monasteries were founded after the fall of Constantinople to the Turks in 1453, in the troubled times between 1466 and 1600. To protect themselves from frequent attacks by Tartars in the east, from the Ottoman Empire in the south, and from Catholic infiltration, the princes of Moldavia built fortifications and established Orthodox strongholds throughout the area.
Situated between east and west, Moldavia ("the gate of Christianity") produced a unique synthesis of Roman and Gothic elements and Byzantine culture. The Movilas, who followed the brilliant reign of Stephen the Great and his family, CHECK THIS HISTORY built the fortified churches and monasteries for which Bucovina is justly famous today. Most of the churches have a tower on the nave and combine a typically Byzantine trifoliate plan with slender Gothic forms and buttressing.
For the edification of the illiterate faithful, polychrome frescoes depicting hundreds of Biblical characters adorn the churches' outer and inner walls. Although essentially Byzantine, the frescoes are infused with the vitality of folk art and mythology. Little is known about the artists, but their skills were such that the paintings remain fresh today, 450 years after their first exposure. Remarkably, the layer of colour in these frescoes is only 0.25 mm thick. In Italian frescoes, by contrast, the paint is absorbed deep into the plaster. Using a palette which included the famous Voronet blue, the green-red of Sucevita, the yellow of Moldovita, the red of Humor and the green of Arbore, the painters recounted the narratives of the earthly and heavenly church, scenes from the lives of the Virgin and the Savior, tales of man's beginnings and of his life beyond death. Also shown are scenes depicting the defence of the Orthodox against deceivers and foes.
 Standing amidst splendid mountain scenery, surrounded by misty valleys, pristine mountain streams and mighty forests of beech and fir, these churches stay bright in the memory long after the visitor has departed. In this breathtaking landscape, as Dr Andre Lwoff noted, 'Everything is so harmonious that it makes you feel meditative and optimistic alike. In the porch of every worship place in the monastic archipelago in the Highland, you experience and live the accomplishment of the feeling of peace.'
Practicalities
Depending on your nationality, you may need to obtain a visa from the Romanian Embassy (USD 32, closed Thursdays). It is possible to drive the almost 700 km to Bucovina in one day but it is a journey of at least 10 hours. Crossing into northern Romania, the roads become narrow. Although there is usually little traffic, progress can be slow due to poor road quality, and driving in the dark in this area is best avoided. It is probably better to start your trip in the afternoon and spend the night near the Romanian border, about four hours from Budapest. The Hubertus Panzio in Mateszalka, (, telephone [44] 313 636) is an adequate hotel close to the Romanian border.
Bucovina offers good quality bed & breakfast accommodation. I recommend the B&B in Vatra Moldovitei, very near the Moldovita monastery, operated by the Moraru family. The telephone/fax number is [40][30] 336 116 (in German or English). Another good bed & breakfast can be found very near the Humor monastery. It is operated by the Beleca family, and the telephone/fax is [40][30] 231 442/232 220. Both Italian and French are spoken. If you want to acquire firsthand experience of monastic life, it is also possible to stay overnight, in austere but comfortable lodgings, in the Moldovita monastery itself. The telephone is [40][30]336348. Ask for Maica Tatiana who speaks German and French.
|
